Well Hello everybody!
It has been a while indeed. Almost 5 months to be specific. It is funny how I started writing this blog as a means to get away (at least mentally) from the grinds of daily life yet those very grinds took me away from writting. One of the many quotes I am quite fond of goes as follows "Never get so busy working that you forget to live." I did. However, I have forced myself to re-prioritize a few things and here I am again. So yay! Now this isn't to say I've had no fun, I have. I just didn't make time to write about anything. Hopefully that changes starting rrrright now. To start things off, a little video I put together. Stay tuned for more to follow. Welcome back to adventure :)
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Surfing on Kauai
The days leading up to my trip home, I wrote down a bunch of great things to do/write about while I was home. However once I got here I fell into this routine: Surf, Eat, Sleep, Repeat. Part of the reason is that my love for surfing is so great that given the option, I'll choose it every time. So what better choice that to write about surfing on Kauai!
Two of the great things about Kauai is the size and the surf. Everyone knows about the north shore of Oahu. Probably a similar number of people know about Jaws or Peahi which is on the north shore of Maui. The surfing on Kauai remains to be a nice, somewhat hidden gem. There are great breaks on all shores of the island which give us waves year round. Also, because of the vast majority of waves, you don't really have to fight too much in the way of crowds. The best part of all that is because of the size of Kauai, no break is more than 2 hours away. These are some of my favorite breaks on the island.
Shipwrecks - Located on the south side of the island, this is a beach break with reef bottom. It is known as a close out wave merely for getting barrels. But getting great barrels is what happens when the swell, wind and tides line up right. A hollow fast wave will be sure to give you your moneys worth. Drawback is that there is one main peak so the crowd factor can become a problem as well as localism if the waves are good.
PK's/ Centers - These are both located in the same area. PK's is a left while Centers is a right. These are both long fun waves when they are on. You can get a ride last 15-20 seconds. The bottom is reef but unless the tide is really low it is nothing you have to worry about much. Groms (little kids) tend to surf quite often here and sometimes they don't always have the respect thing down yet.
Pakalas - This one is one of the best waves on the island. Also one of the harder ones to find. To get here you would park along the highway, walk on the trail through the cow pastures (which no longer have cows as far as I know) across a stream to the beach. It is a left with several different breaks. Given the right swell direction and conditions, you can get a wave from the outside break all the way through giving you a ride of at least 30 seconds. The crowd is something you'll have to fight sometimes but the bigger worry is what lies beneath. There is an old sugar cane irrigation ditch which exits right near the break. This ditch makes the water constantly the brown murky color. The saying goes "If it weren't for the water color, between the sharks and the reef, no one would surf there." I've both hit the reef before as well as seen a number of sharks here before. So I wouldn't doubt part of that saying. But as the same time, when the waves are breaking, I find it hard to believe that some people wouldn't risk it.
Kalihiwai - This is a right handed point break like no other on the island. It breaks at the foot of a cliff. To get the best ride you want to take off on the other side of the point and ride in front of the cliff. Not as scary as it sounds but if you don't make it, you can easily end up like my favorite whiskey, on the rocks. Make it though and you have yourself and super fun right that will take you a long way. At the main point break, the crowd is sometimes an issue as it can be localized. But there are several other breaks which can still be tons of fun.
Hanalei Bay - This is probably the most popular break on the island. I would say the main reason is that it can handle wave sizes ranging from knee high up to 20+ feet. Get the right wave and you can get a solid 15-20 second ride in. One of my favorite breaks but because of the popularity, it is usually one of the most crowded as well. The people are can be pretty respectful as long as you are in return. Be prepared to wait your turn in the lineup. Also be prepared to paddle as the wave breaks at least a good quarter mile out.
Targets - This was the break that I lost my board. It is a fast, powerful wave that is known for barrels. Some times there are people towing in not for the size but for the speed of the waves. Catch it in the right conditions and it can be an amazing day of surfing. Catch it at the wrong time and you can lose multiple boards in a day (speaking from experience). It is some what out of the way so crowds are rarely an issue. Currents can be an issue but they are usually cross shore as opposed to one pulling you out to sea.
By no means are these the only beaches on Kauai. These are just a handful of my favorite. But the waves can be good anywhere at anytime. That is why I always just choose to surf while I'm home. I never know what the waves have in store for me.
Two of the great things about Kauai is the size and the surf. Everyone knows about the north shore of Oahu. Probably a similar number of people know about Jaws or Peahi which is on the north shore of Maui. The surfing on Kauai remains to be a nice, somewhat hidden gem. There are great breaks on all shores of the island which give us waves year round. Also, because of the vast majority of waves, you don't really have to fight too much in the way of crowds. The best part of all that is because of the size of Kauai, no break is more than 2 hours away. These are some of my favorite breaks on the island.
Shipwrecks - Located on the south side of the island, this is a beach break with reef bottom. It is known as a close out wave merely for getting barrels. But getting great barrels is what happens when the swell, wind and tides line up right. A hollow fast wave will be sure to give you your moneys worth. Drawback is that there is one main peak so the crowd factor can become a problem as well as localism if the waves are good.
PK's/ Centers - These are both located in the same area. PK's is a left while Centers is a right. These are both long fun waves when they are on. You can get a ride last 15-20 seconds. The bottom is reef but unless the tide is really low it is nothing you have to worry about much. Groms (little kids) tend to surf quite often here and sometimes they don't always have the respect thing down yet.
Pakalas - This one is one of the best waves on the island. Also one of the harder ones to find. To get here you would park along the highway, walk on the trail through the cow pastures (which no longer have cows as far as I know) across a stream to the beach. It is a left with several different breaks. Given the right swell direction and conditions, you can get a wave from the outside break all the way through giving you a ride of at least 30 seconds. The crowd is something you'll have to fight sometimes but the bigger worry is what lies beneath. There is an old sugar cane irrigation ditch which exits right near the break. This ditch makes the water constantly the brown murky color. The saying goes "If it weren't for the water color, between the sharks and the reef, no one would surf there." I've both hit the reef before as well as seen a number of sharks here before. So I wouldn't doubt part of that saying. But as the same time, when the waves are breaking, I find it hard to believe that some people wouldn't risk it.
Kalihiwai - This is a right handed point break like no other on the island. It breaks at the foot of a cliff. To get the best ride you want to take off on the other side of the point and ride in front of the cliff. Not as scary as it sounds but if you don't make it, you can easily end up like my favorite whiskey, on the rocks. Make it though and you have yourself and super fun right that will take you a long way. At the main point break, the crowd is sometimes an issue as it can be localized. But there are several other breaks which can still be tons of fun.
Hanalei Bay - This is probably the most popular break on the island. I would say the main reason is that it can handle wave sizes ranging from knee high up to 20+ feet. Get the right wave and you can get a solid 15-20 second ride in. One of my favorite breaks but because of the popularity, it is usually one of the most crowded as well. The people are can be pretty respectful as long as you are in return. Be prepared to wait your turn in the lineup. Also be prepared to paddle as the wave breaks at least a good quarter mile out.
Targets - This was the break that I lost my board. It is a fast, powerful wave that is known for barrels. Some times there are people towing in not for the size but for the speed of the waves. Catch it in the right conditions and it can be an amazing day of surfing. Catch it at the wrong time and you can lose multiple boards in a day (speaking from experience). It is some what out of the way so crowds are rarely an issue. Currents can be an issue but they are usually cross shore as opposed to one pulling you out to sea.
By no means are these the only beaches on Kauai. These are just a handful of my favorite. But the waves can be good anywhere at anytime. That is why I always just choose to surf while I'm home. I never know what the waves have in store for me.
Monday, January 14, 2013
Tribute to a Fallen Warrior
I'm going to start by taking a moment of silence for the recently departed. He was a brave soul. He always stood by my side and never let me down no matter what the size of the waves. Today he met his demise after dropping into an overhead closeout barrel at one of the more powerful breaks on Kauai. When he surfaced again, there was nothing I could do to help. He was a goner. Now before anyone gets too worried, we are talking about my surfboard.
The morning started off well enough. I found some waves at a break called "Targets". It got this name because it is in front of what used to be the target range for the navy base on the island. It is a strong break with sand bottom known for its fast barreling waves. To get there you exit an old sugar cane road to the beach. From there you drive onto the beach (4-wheel drive a must have) and down the beach about a half mile. The lazy side of me was very disappointed however to find that recent rains had knocked a tree over blocking the entire beach to drive on. So I was left to walk.
The morning started off well enough. I found some waves at a break called "Targets". It got this name because it is in front of what used to be the target range for the navy base on the island. It is a strong break with sand bottom known for its fast barreling waves. To get there you exit an old sugar cane road to the beach. From there you drive onto the beach (4-wheel drive a must have) and down the beach about a half mile. The lazy side of me was very disappointed however to find that recent rains had knocked a tree over blocking the entire beach to drive on. So I was left to walk.
In retrospect, it wasn't so bad. As you can tell, there weren't many people there which made the waves that much more exciting. The walk was a nice time to take in everything. I took a deep breath of the fresh ocean air. Mild breeze blowing and the sun was out the majority of the time. I couldn't help but smile.
I paddled out and started my session. I was a little timid to start as the waves in Hawaii are generally stronger than they are in the mainland. After 30 or 40 minutes, it came back and everything started clicking. As I grew more comfortable, I started pushing myself more and more. Finally it happened. I saw a larger set coming in. I paddled over to take off on it. I dropped into the barrel (easily overhead) and watched as I saw the wave start to closeout in front of me. I bailed when I saw this happening and that's when I felt it. When I popped back to the surface, I found my board like this:
The other half was taken out to sea as I was unable to swim myself in while holding on to it. I swam in, gathered my stuff and started my walk back.
In the end it was a good day. I got about 2 hours in before my board broke. During these two hours I got myself comfortable with surfing in Hawaii again (something I go through every time) and some nice rides. Also, breaking is really something that happens to every board eventually, it's existance comes to an end. Sitting here now thinking about everything I can do nothing but continue my day and
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
Hello 2013
As 2012 comes to a close, I think back about my year. It was quite the interesting year. I have had some great highs and some lows. As we head into 2013 however, I feel like things are definitely on an upswing. Here is a look ahead at some things that I hope to accomplish in the next 12 months:
Summit Mt. Whitney - This one I stated in my dream adventures. I think it is definitely one that I could do. The most challenging part of this will be getting the overnight permit. From the trail head, the summit is 10.7 miles. The peak is 24,497 feet. And being the highest point the in contiguous, it is a very popular hiking destination. So this means the that the permits are given out in lottery so there is no guarantee that I'll get one.
Spartan Race Trifecta Badge - This is also something that I mentioned in the my dream adventures. It consists of completing all three distances of the spartan races. The sprint is about 3 miles, the super spartan is between 8 and 10 miles while the spartan beast is 12-15 miles. First up for me is the super spartan which I'll be running the last weekend of January.The bonus would be qualifying for what is called the "Spartan Death Race". It is a 48 hour race which you only qualify for by doing well in the Spartan Beast.
Surf Trip to Baja - I have talked about doing this with my brother for years. There are risks involved especially with the current state of Mexico drug wars. But with risk comes reward. The chance to surf in warm water without the crowd is plenty enough of a reward to me. In the meantime I will continue to enjoy the surf I can get right here while wearing my wetsuit and fighting the crowds.
Trans- Catalina Trail - I've been to Catalina several times and have loved each and every time. I think it is a great get away from the hustle and bustle of living in Los Angeles. I would love to to spend a weekend hiking around the island exploring.
While these are not the only things I will be doing this year (hopefully!), these are the top adventures I hope to have done come this time next year. Happy new years everyone. May this year bring joy and adventure into your life.
Summit Mt. Whitney - This one I stated in my dream adventures. I think it is definitely one that I could do. The most challenging part of this will be getting the overnight permit. From the trail head, the summit is 10.7 miles. The peak is 24,497 feet. And being the highest point the in contiguous, it is a very popular hiking destination. So this means the that the permits are given out in lottery so there is no guarantee that I'll get one.
Spartan Race Trifecta Badge - This is also something that I mentioned in the my dream adventures. It consists of completing all three distances of the spartan races. The sprint is about 3 miles, the super spartan is between 8 and 10 miles while the spartan beast is 12-15 miles. First up for me is the super spartan which I'll be running the last weekend of January.The bonus would be qualifying for what is called the "Spartan Death Race". It is a 48 hour race which you only qualify for by doing well in the Spartan Beast.
Surf Trip to Baja - I have talked about doing this with my brother for years. There are risks involved especially with the current state of Mexico drug wars. But with risk comes reward. The chance to surf in warm water without the crowd is plenty enough of a reward to me. In the meantime I will continue to enjoy the surf I can get right here while wearing my wetsuit and fighting the crowds.
Trans- Catalina Trail - I've been to Catalina several times and have loved each and every time. I think it is a great get away from the hustle and bustle of living in Los Angeles. I would love to to spend a weekend hiking around the island exploring.
While these are not the only things I will be doing this year (hopefully!), these are the top adventures I hope to have done come this time next year. Happy new years everyone. May this year bring joy and adventure into your life.
Sunday, December 2, 2012
My Dream Adventures
- "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step."
- - Lao-Tzu
- If the name of my blog wasn't obvious, I love to go on adventures, both big and small. I'm always looking for the next fun thing to do. The only way to get anywhere is to start going. When Lao-Tzu said his famous quote, the only way to do that was to literally start walking. In this day and age, it takes a little more planning. The list that follows are what I hope to be my next 5 big adventures. Putting them here is my first step. Now the only way to continue is forward.
- 5) Summit Mt Whitney
- For those that don't know, Mt' Whitney is the highest point in the lower 48 states. I've always thought how cool been one to try and go higher than the rest. What is the best way to do that? Go to the top of the highest point! The tricky part with this lies in getting the permit. Because it is a popular destination, the only way to get a over night permit (which you need for this hike), is through a lottery. This means I could easily get it this year or I could never get it. However, if I don't try I will never get it. The applications open February 1st.
- 4) Earn Spartan Race Trifecta Badge
- Part of adventure is pushing yourself. Finding out how far you can go. The latest craze to do this is these long mud run/ obstacle course runs. I am signed up for the January 26th race down here in Southern California. This is the first of three races that I will have to do in a calendar year to achieve the coveted (by some) Spartan Trifecta badge. To read more about the Trifecta badge, click here. If you want to see what the Spartan Race is about, click here. If you feel up to it, sign up for one. Start your own adventure. But if you do, just promise me you'll tell me about it.
- 3) Mountain Bike in Utah
- Yes, that is what the guy was doing in the movie "127 Hours". Sure there is the chance something like that could happen to me. But if you don't risk anything then you will lead a dull life. Utah has some of the most beautiful mountain biking area in the country. I would love to just spend a weekend or a week biking about the wilderness getting lost then finding my way back. It's very rare to find someplace without technology these days but I have a feeling this would be one of those places. Plus, Arches National park is in Utah. I would love to go there and explore too. If I got really lucky I would find the place to do this. Would I do it? Absolutely! I would go just to do this. But I figured I might as well get some great mountain biking in while I'm at it.
- 2) Wingsuit Flying
- If skydiving make you feel like you're floating, I imagine wingsuit flying would be like flying. A wingsuit basically turns a human into a flying squirrel. You can soar long distances to increase your free fall time. The hard part about this one is that you need to be certified to sky dive by yourself first as well as have several hundred dives. So this is definitely one I would have to work up to but it is on my list to do.
- 1) Sail Around the World
- These are the adventures I'd love to go on next. They will take some time and patience obviously. But the only way they will ever happen is to start working towards them, taking my footsteps towards the 1000 mile journey.
Thursday, November 22, 2012
Happy Thanksgiving
As the sun was rising this morning in the cloudless sky, I stared out into the ocean. I was sitting on my board looking for the next wave. There was just a breath of wind and the water was glassy. The swell had come in overnight to make the waves a perfect height. The sea birds we awaking looking for their morning meal. A pod of dolphins swam just outside the break. It was a wonderful way to start the day.
Being born and raised in Hawaii, I have a love for the all things ocean. From sailing to fishing to swimming, I love it all. However, my favorite is surfing. Nothing makes me as happy as getting into the water to surf. And if it's a good day, it is that much better.
This morning was a great day. The obvious is to be thankful for your family and friends and health. But everyone should also be thankful for the little things in their life as well. Today I am thankful for the ocean. I am thankful where I happen to live. I am thankful for the adventures I have and the experiences I have gained. I only hope that they can continue. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
I took these after I was done:
Being born and raised in Hawaii, I have a love for the all things ocean. From sailing to fishing to swimming, I love it all. However, my favorite is surfing. Nothing makes me as happy as getting into the water to surf. And if it's a good day, it is that much better.
This morning was a great day. The obvious is to be thankful for your family and friends and health. But everyone should also be thankful for the little things in their life as well. Today I am thankful for the ocean. I am thankful where I happen to live. I am thankful for the adventures I have and the experiences I have gained. I only hope that they can continue. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
I took these after I was done:
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